Den Bosch, officially ‘s-Hertogenbosch, is the kind of city that most people skip on their way from Amsterdam to somewhere else, and that is a mistake. The things to do in Den Bosch include a huge Gothic cathedral, canals that run under houses, a painter who invented his own nightmares and one of the most famous pastries in the country. It is the capital of the southern province of Noord-Brabant, and it feels relaxed and a bit mischievous.
Things to do in Den Bosch: what is it known for?
Three things, mainly. First, the Sint-Janskathedraal, a Gothic church so large and detailed that it looks almost like a stone forest. Second, the painter Hieronymus Bosch, who was born here around the middle of the fifteenth century and whose strange visions of hell and temptation are still copied on souvenirs. Third, the Bossche bol, a chocolate-covered pastry ball filled with whipped cream, which locals defend fiercely against all comparison.
The cathedral and the Markt
Start at the Markt, the central square, where the town hall stands and a statue of Bosch looks out over the market stalls and cafes. From there, it is a short walk to the Sint-Janskathedraal. Inside, you will find lots of carved stone, a painted ceiling and a lot of light. Outside, look up at the flying buttresses, where small sculptures of strange creatures and everyday figures sit among the stonework. Check current opening times, since they can differ on Sundays and during services.
Under the city: the Binnendieze
This is the highlight for many visitors. The Binnendieze is a network of small waterways that once ran through the old city, serving as sewers, transport routes and workshops. Over the centuries, buildings were built over them, so a boat trip takes you under houses and through low tunnels, past old walls and hidden gardens. Guides explain the history in a few languages, and the trip lasts for under an hour, so it makes a good midday break. Book ahead in high season, since boats are small.
Walking the Binnendieze above ground
If you prefer to stay dry, you can follow part of the Binnendieze on foot, along the Parade and by the city walls, where you will see the water from above. It is an easy walk with cafes along the way.
Bosch and his art
The Jheronimus Bosch Art Center, located in a former church opposite the Markt, shows reproductions of the painter’s works and explains his strange imagery. The original paintings are mostly in museums elsewhere in Europe, so this is the place to learn the context rather than to see masterpieces up close. You can climb the tower for a good view of the city. Another option is the Noordbrabants Museum, which covers regional art and history in a historic building, and it is a good choice if the weather turns.
Eat the bol
No visit is complete without a Bossche bol. It is big, rich and messy, so ask for a napkin and sit down to eat it. Several bakeries sell them, and each claims to make the best, so the honest approach is to try two and decide for yourself. Prices are around the same as a coffee and cake combination, but check at the counter. Beyond the bol, Brabant has a strong food tradition, with rich stews, sausage rolls and local beers, which fits the southern Dutch habit of enjoying life at a slow pace.
A relaxed one-day route
- Arrive at the station and walk into the centre, around fifteen minutes.
- Coffee and a bol near the Markt.
- Visit the cathedral in the late morning.
- Take the Binnendieze boat tour after lunch.
- Visit the Bosch Art Center or the Noordbrabants Museum.
- Wander the old streets and city walls before dinner.
Carnival and events
In February or early March, the city temporarily renames itself Oeteldonk and the whole centre dresses up for carnival, with costumes, music and parades. If you enjoy a party, it is a great time to go, but if you want quiet streets, check the carnival dates and avoid them. Throughout the year, the city also hosts markets, music and open-air events, so look at the local calendar before you go.
Getting there
Den Bosch lies roughly a half hour by train from Utrecht, and under an hour from Amsterdam, which makes it an easy day trip. Eindhoven and Tilburg are also close, so you can combine the city with another Brabant stop. The centre is compact and flat, and walking is the best way around.
Whether you stay for a day or a weekend, the things to do in Den Bosch reward curiosity. Slow down, find a terrace, eat a pastry and let the strange stone faces on the cathedral watch you do it.
More from us: The Netherlands.
Featured photo: Marczoutendijk / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0).
