If you have never tried Surinamese food, you are missing one of the great cuisines of the Dutch-speaking world. It does not look like anything you would find in a classic Dutch cafe, and that is the point. Suriname, a small country on the northeast coast of South America, was a Dutch colony for centuries, and its kitchen reflects the people who came to live there: Indigenous communities, West African descendants, Indian, Javanese, Chinese and European settlers.
Why Surinamese food tastes the way it does
Many cuisines are layered, but few mix as many traditions in one meal. A single table might hold Indian-style curry, Javanese noodles, Creole stewed greens and Chinese-influenced fried rice. Spice is common, often with a fiery pepper called Madame Jeanette, so if you see a small pot of hot sauce, treat it with respect. A good overview of the background can be found in the Wikipedia article on Surinamese cuisine.
Because many Surinamese people moved to the Netherlands, especially around the time of independence in 1975, you can eat this food in Amsterdam, Rotterdam, The Hague and Utrecht, often at small family-run places.
The dishes you should try first
Roti
Roti is a flatbread served with a curry of chicken, potato and long beans, plus a side of vegetables. In Suriname, the style is often a soft, thin flatbread, served separately from the filling, so you tear off pieces and scoop. Many people also like it as a rolled wrap. It is filling, mild to medium in spice, and a perfect place to start.
Pom
Pom is a baked dish made from grated root vegetable, usually pomtajer, with chicken and citrus. It is soft, savory and slightly tangy, and often served at celebrations. Sandwich shops sell a version in a bun, called a broodje pom, which is a classic lunch.
Bami and nasi
Born of Javanese and Chinese influence, bami (noodles) and nasi (rice) turn up everywhere. They are usually stir-fried with vegetables and pieces of meat, and served with sides like peanut sauce, chicken, egg or fried plantain. A plate of bami or nasi with a few toppings is a simple, cheap meal and one of the best places to begin if you are unsure.
Moksi alesi
This is a rice dish, whose name means mixed rice, with salted meat or fish, vegetables and spices all cooked together. It is a hearty one-pot meal often eaten at family gatherings.
Saoto and peanut soup
Saoto is a clear, fragrant chicken soup of Javanese origin, served with rice or noodles, boiled egg and crisp potato sticks. Peanut soup, or pindasoep, is thick, rich and warming. Both are good for cold days.
Snacks and street food
- Pastei: a puff pastry pie, usually filled with chicken or vegetables.
- Bara: fried split-pea dough balls, often eaten with chutney.
- Loempia: fried spring rolls, which you will see in snack shops everywhere.
- Dawet: a sweet coconut drink with soft tapioca-like strands, perfect on hot days.
How to order without feeling lost
Most Surinamese restaurants are friendly and happy to explain. If you are not sure, ask for the owner’s favorite, or order a combination plate. Say how spicy you can handle, because the answer may be hotter than you think. Do not be shy about asking for the pepper on the side.
When you eat roti, it is normal to use your hands. Tear a piece of bread, scoop a bit of curry, and eat. Cutlery is optional. If you are with a group, order several dishes and share, since the variety is half of the pleasure.
Where to find it
In the Netherlands, a good starting point is any big city with a strong Surinamese community. Neighborhoods in Amsterdam such as the Bijlmer and De Pijp, and parts of The Hague, are known for it. Markets such as the Albert Cuyp market sometimes have food stalls, and many snack bars sell broodje pom or bami. Opening times and menus change, so look up current details.
Outside the Netherlands, Surinamese restaurants are rare, but you can try cooking at home. Ingredients like long beans, plantain and pepper sauces are available in many Asian and Caribbean grocery stores.
A good first meal
If you want a safe plan, order a roti with chicken, a side of vegetables and a cold drink. Share a pastei or bara as a starter, and finish with something sweet. This is Surinamese food at its friendliest: abundant, warm and always a little unexpected. Once you try it, you will probably start looking for the next place.
More from us: Food & Drink.
Featured photo: Laig / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0).
