Ask ten locals about the belgrade best restaurants and you will get ten different answers, plus an argument about who grills the best meat. That is part of the charm. Belgrade eats late, eats generously and cares about food in a very unpretentious way. This guide skips the rigid ranking and shows you the types of places worth your time, and how to pick a good one on the spot.
Start with a kafana
The kafana is the traditional Serbian tavern: wooden tables, sometimes live music, big plates and rakija. The old bohemian street of Skadarlija is the famous place to try one. It is touristy, yes, but the atmosphere is genuine and the food is hearty. For a more local feel, wander a few streets away from the main lanes and look for places where the menu is handwritten and the tables are full of Serbian conversation.
What to order in a kafana: a mixed grill platter to share, sarma (cabbage rolls), a fresh shopska salad and, if you dare, a small glass of rakija. Bread is usually on the table and excellent.
Grill houses and street food
Serbia is serious about grilled meat. Ćevapi, small minced-meat sausages, come with chopped onion and flatbread, and pljeskavica is a seasoned patty somewhere between a burger and a steak. Bakeries sell burek, flaky pastry filled with cheese or meat, which is the standard breakfast and the cheapest filling meal in town. A kajmak spread, creamy and a little salty, shows up everywhere.
River restaurants in Zemun and on the water
Zemun, on the Danube, has fish restaurants with views over the river. Floating restaurants on the Sava and Danube, called splavovi, are better known for nightlife, though some serve food in the early evening. Fish soup is a river speciality worth trying; expect it to be rich and paprika-heavy.
Modern and international dining
In recent years the city has built a decent scene of modern bistros, vegetarian cafés and wine bars. Serbian wine, particularly from regions south of the capital, is worth a taste, and many restaurants happily recommend a glass if you ask.
How to choose well
- Look for places busy with locals at normal Serbian mealtimes, which are later than in Britain or the US
- Ask what the house speciality is and order that
- Portions are big, so share starters
- Check whether service is included before tipping; rounding up or leaving around 10 percent is customary
A suggested food day
Start with burek and yoghurt at a bakery, a classic breakfast that costs very little. For lunch, try a simple grill counter for ćevapi, or a daily-menu restaurant where a soup, main and bread appear fast. In the afternoon, stop for Serbian coffee, thick and served in a small copper pot, and a slice of cake. Dinner is the long one: pick a kafana, share a grill platter and a salad, and let the evening stretch. Many places stay open late and the live music often starts after eight.
Vegetarians and special diets
Serbian food is meat-heavy, but vegetarians are not stranded. Cheese pies, grilled vegetables, bean stew (prebranac), roasted peppers and big salads are easy to find. Say clearly that you don’t eat meat, because a dish with vegetables may still be cooked with bacon or lard. Newer cafés in the centre cater well to vegan and gluten-free diets.
Best time to eat outdoors
Late spring to early autumn is the best period, when garden terraces and riverside spots are in full swing. In winter the kafanas turn cosy and warm, with stews and hot rakija, which is its own kind of good.
Prices and practical details
Eating out in Belgrade is generally good value compared with western Europe. Prices change, so treat any number you read as a rough idea only. Cash is still handy in small places, although cards are widely accepted. Booking ahead helps on Friday and Saturday evenings.
If you are planning a longer stay, our notes on how many days in Belgrade will help you fit meals around sightseeing. For background on the national cuisine see Serbian cuisine on Wikipedia.
