Ask New Yorkers where to find the real Italian food in the city and many will skip Manhattan and point north. Arthur Ave, in the Belmont neighborhood of the Bronx, is a compact stretch of Italian delis, bakeries, butchers and restaurants that has served the community for generations. It is often called the Bronx’s Little Italy, and it feels more like a working neighborhood than a tourist attraction, which is exactly its appeal.
Where it is and how to get there
Arthur Avenue runs through Belmont, close to the Bronx Zoo and the New York Botanical Garden. The easiest approach by subway is to head to Fordham Road or Pelham Parkway and then take a bus or walk, or take the Metro-North Harlem line to Fordham station and continue by bus or taxi. Check the MTA site for current routes and service changes, as they vary at weekends. A taxi or ride-share from Manhattan is another option, though traffic can be slow.
Start at the Arthur Avenue Retail Market
The Arthur Avenue Retail Market is an indoor market built in the 1940s, when mayor Fiorello La Guardia moved pushcart vendors off the street. Inside you will find food stalls, a cigar roller and small restaurants. Look for fresh pasta, cheeses, cured meats, olive oils and seafood. It is a good place to buy edible souvenirs, and the vendors are usually happy to answer questions.
What to buy
- Fresh mozzarella and ricotta from a cheese shop.
- Cured meats and sausages from a salumeria.
- Dried pasta and sauces to carry home (check customs rules if flying abroad).
- Cannoli and sfogliatelle from a bakery.
- Fresh bread, taken warm out of the oven.
The delis, bakeries and restaurants
Along the avenue and the surrounding streets you will find a mix of old and new places. Some are known for red-sauce classics like baked ziti, chicken parmigiana and veal dishes. Others sell sandwiches stacked high with cold cuts and cheese. Seafood restaurants serve pasta with clams or calamari. Do not expect trendy decor. Many places are casual, with large portions and friendly service.
Since individual restaurants open and close, and hours differ, look at recent listings before you set out. Some places are cash-only or have limited hours on Mondays and in the late afternoon, so check first.
When to go
Saturday is the busiest day, with locals shopping for the weekend, and the energy is part of the fun. Weekdays are calmer, and a late-morning arrival gives you time to browse before lunch. Evenings are good for dinner, but some shops close in the late afternoon. Around Christmas and Easter, the area sees extra crowds as families stock up on festive food.
Combine it with other Bronx stops
Because Arthur Ave is next to major attractions, you can build a day around it:
1. New York Botanical Garden, a large garden with a conservatory and seasonal displays. 2. Bronx Zoo, one of the largest city zoos in the country. 3. Fordham University campus, with its Gothic buildings. 4. Yankee Stadium, if you are a baseball fan, a subway ride south.
A sensible plan is to visit the garden or zoo in the morning, then walk or take a short ride to Arthur Avenue for a late lunch.
A bit of history
Italian immigrants settled in Belmont in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, and the area grew into a close community with shops serving it. Over time, Albanian, Mexican and other communities have also made their home here, so you may find those cuisines nearby as well. For more background, see the Wikipedia page on Arthur Avenue.
Tips for visitors
- Bring cash for small purchases, although many places accept cards.
- Go hungry, and share dishes so you can try more.
- Ask vendors for samples where offered, and be polite about it.
- Wear comfortable shoes, as you will walk between stalls and shops.
- Keep an eye on bags in busy areas as you would anywhere in the city.
- Prices and opening hours change, so check ahead on official or business pages.
Is it worth the trip?
If you love food, then yes. Arthur Ave does not have the glamour of Manhattan, yet it offers a deeply local experience, with real shopkeepers who know their customers and recipes that have been handed down. Plan a half day, arrive hungry, and treat it as a market visit rather than a sightseeing stop. The combination of cheese, bread, pasta and a good espresso at a counter is hard to beat, and it shows why Arthur Ave remains a favorite for people who care about eating well in New York.
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Image credit: Leonard J. DeFrancisci via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0).
