Gin gets the headlines, but its ancestor comes from the Low Countries. Genever Amsterdam is a delight for anyone who enjoys spirits, because the city has a long tradition of tasting houses where the drink is served in tiny glasses filled to the brim.
What is genever?
Genever (also spelled jenever) is a Dutch and Belgian spirit made from malt wine, a grain-based distillate, flavoured with juniper berries and sometimes herbs. It has been produced for centuries, and British soldiers who drank it in the Low Countries brought the idea back home, which later developed into English gin.
The styles
- Jonge (young): lighter, cleaner, less malty, often used for mixing.
- Oude (old): richer, malty, with a deeper flavour, closer to whisky in character.
- Korenwijn: a high-malt-wine version that is aged and sipped slowly.
Where to taste it
Several historic bars and shops serve genever. Wynand Fockink, a tasting house near Dam Square that has been operating since 1679, is well known for its liqueurs and genever. Another place often recommended is Proeflokaal A. van Wees near the Montelbaanstoren, where you can try different bottles in a small tavern. Opening hours and prices change, so look at their pages before going.
How to drink it
The traditional ritual is called the “kopstootje” or “headbutt”: a glass of genever served with a beer chaser. The glass is filled to the top, so you bend down to take the first sip without lifting it, which is easier than spilling. Sip slowly; the spirit is strong.
Cocktails
Young genever works well in a Collins or an old-fashioned. Many cocktail bars in the city now use it in new drinks, which is a good way to try it if neat sipping is too much.
Buying a bottle
Liquor shops and distilleries sell genever, often as gifts. Look for labels that mention “oude” or “korenwijn” for richer styles. Check duty-free limits for alcohol when you travel home.
Tips
- Go in the afternoon, when tasting houses are calmer.
- Pair with bitterballen or Dutch cheese.
- Drink water between tastes.
- Do not drive afterwards, and drink responsibly.
Visit local tourism pages such as I amsterdam for events and tastings. More food and drink travel guides are on invisionfree.com.
Featured image: unknown, via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0).
